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Portraits of a Traveler

Snapshots of people, places and things as I travel through life and around the world.

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Tag: Travel account

Portland Arch: Indiana Route 41 Road trip (pt. 1)

Only about 10 minutes west from Route 41 and just a bit south of Attica, Indiana, and about 30 minutes north of Turkey Run State Park, this is a nice little stop as you are traveling to or from the park from this general direction. The preserve is situated just out side of the town of fountain. Road signs can direct you once you reach the town.

It is listed as a national natural monument and is one of a few natural arches in the state. It really is what they call a “hidden gem”.

Like Turkey Run State Park, this nature preserve has some unusual and unique vegetation. The Department of Natural Resources’ description of the location ( https://www.in.gov/dnr/naturepreserve/files/np-Portland_Arch.pdf ) says this is the only location in the state where Canada blueberry grows. It makes me wonder how climate and geology influenced the spread and establishment of flora in the region and how this has changed over time. No mega fauna on the site today, of course, but there are also huckleberry patches and wintergreen, which is a plant more commonly found in the far north of the US.

The north trailhead which is at the first parking lot (of two) goes to the arch. There is a second parking lot and a south trail which is also a loop that leads towards Bear creek, but does not link up with the north trail or provide views of the arch. There are marked stations on the path which are described in the pamphlet for the park: https://www.in.gov/dnr/naturepreserve/files/Portland_Arch.pdf However, many of the posts have rotted away in the wet environment so if you aren’t keeping track you may lose your place in the pamphlet guide.

The preserve entrance is through a baffled gate such as ones that keep livestock and bikers out. There is a Memorial stone with plaque just inside the fence to denote the preserve’s status as a National Landmark.

The trail length is listed as 0.8 of a mile. Sandstone cliffs form a narrow ravine that is watered by a small creek. This creek cuts through the sandstone, forming a natural arch. The same creek feeds into a larger creek (Bear creek) that flows into the Wasbash River, which is less than half a mile away as the crow flies.

It was just a short walk through the forest and then downward on a small footpath when the sandstone cliffs began to emerge from the covered earth. Not much further along a small footbridge crosses an unnamed creek. If it were up to me, I’d call it arch creek since it is the waterway that helped formed the arch. The DNR wrote that the arch was created by undercutting on both sides of the rock protrusion.

The striations created by the layering when the stone was originally formed, made interesting natural patterns that become more stunning on the other side of the arch.

This is a nature preserve so there are some restrictions such as no picking the vegetation and they ask you clean your shoes before entering to reduce the possibility of brining in seeds of nonnative plants.

It’s a short and easy trail to hike, and, though small, there is a lot to see. Once you pass over the first little footbridge and follow the path along the sandstone rock face, it’s only just a little further and the arch becomes visible in the sandstone wall you’ve been walking next to. The creek you just crossed turns again and flows through the arch. The trail follows the same path and you can walk upright through the arch.

The rock formations fascinated me with their alternation my angles. I wasn’t sure how best to capture the features. Here you can see they change directions just above the arch and this may have played a structural stability role in why it did not topple.

I took a few pictures and then passed through. The arch proportions. Make it seem smaller that it is and I found, though I’m not terribly tall, I could walk through without stoops over. Just a small stream of clear water was running through today. It must see higher water after heavy rains.

Passing through the arch from this direction was like walking through a garden gate. The sandstone protrusion was like a walk and protected the environment on the other side closer to Bear creek. The first difference I noticed was the size of the plants. They wee much larger here.

Now the alternating direction of the stone layers became more apparent and beautiful.

The rock ends abruptly and just next to it Bear creek runs. Higher cliffs rise on the opposite side though further back. I had to wonder if Bear creek had at one time cut a similar arch through this same wall of sandstone.

Heading on down the trail, the cliffs rose higher on either side of the creek. The pale touch me nots were huge- almost to my shoulder in height. Another wooden walkway facilitated walking between the creek and cliff.

The path continues along the creek for a while offering a view of the much taller cliff face opposite.

The trail followed a bit further but then turned abruptly towards the cliff face on our side of the creek and again to make almost a 180 degree turn to follow the stone and climb a short and relatively easy pitch up out of the ravine.

Soon we were back up to the surrounding ground level. Though sunny raindrops were hitting the leaves on the canopy high above making almost a popping sound. I couldn’t identify the noise at first I had heard similar sounds of a tree with an insect infestation. Soon the clouds and increase in the noise made it clear it was rain. It stopped just a few minutes later. As we nearer the parking lot it was clear a rain shower was passing nearby and some rain had blown out of it, but that was all.

In just a few minutes we were back at the car, the trail having formed a loop that linked up a short distance from the parking lot.

I saw some photos posted of their being a waterfall on the premises. There is a second trail and a pioneer cemetery and I image some view of the Wabash from the small riverside town of Fountain. I did not see it so perhaps will stop in again as a nice break along Route 41.

Just a short distance up the road and on the other side of Attica and the Wabash is the state’s tallest waterfall. It seems there is plenty to see along Route 41. I’ll have to save that for the next time.

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Holly Travel blog Leave a comment July 4, 2019July 4, 2019 5 Minutes

Eiffel Lake: A little taste of Alpine wilderness

Hiking on the path near Eiffel Lake.

Located in Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada and just a short distance from Lake Louise, this moderately rated trail is a good day hike trail pick. It’s about 7 miles long with much of its 1800 foot elevation gain occurring in the first mile and a half of the trail.

There were not too many folks on this trail. It was a pleasant contrast to the shores of Lake Louise. There you almost had to push your way through crowds to walk, especially near the famed hotel. The downside of many people being able to afford travel is that some beautiful places become heavily trafficked making even access (e.g.,parking a problem). On our trip forest fires played into the numbers as some places were closed, forcing tourists and hikers to funnel to other areas.

You can’t blame folks for wanting to see beauty and getting away, but balancing this with the sheer numbers and it’s impact on the environment and other hikers is a difficult question to answer. I’ve seen it at the Grand Canyon and Yosemite. It took from the enjoyment of some areas.

Once it became apparent that seeing some places meant even greater crowds than anticipated, our guide made some alterations to times and places to avoid crowds. The strategy worked pretty well. There is so much beauty to see in the Canadian Rockies you don’t have to go to to see the Insta-famed sites and not at the same height traffic times of day or year.

The trail head, which actually is a connecting trail for our purposes, named Larch Valley trail, rises from iconic Moraine Lake. Definitely stop to take in the view on a short boulder trail at the end of the lake adjacent to the parking lot. A view of the 10 peaks behind the lake made their way on to Canadian currency for a time. And for good reason. It is certainly a breathtaking view — one you can hardly believe is real. Canoes are available for rental, but they are a bit pricey, like Lake Louise. There’s also a gift shop and cafe at the parking lot.

After walking the lakeside boulder trail, we passed the gift shop and followed a series of several switchbacks, which took us up through the coniferous forest. We would follow the trail beyond the Valley of the Ten Peaks and eventually on to “Desolation Valley” and then Eiffel lake itself. Most of our elevation gain took place here on the larch valley trail–the first mile and a half of the trek.

One of several switchbacks rising above Moraine lake on the first leg of our journey. Just a glimpse of some of the 10 peaks through the trees.

Once we got on Eiffel lake trail, things pretty well leveled out. The larch valley trail continues on to Eiffel peak. Our path for the day, went on to the the lake of the same name. We hiked in July so the days were long and warm and most of the snow was gone. Something you want to take into consideration if planning a day hike at a different season.

We moved in small groups according to pace. I typically bounced from front to back of the main body, as I walked faster but would frequently stop to take pictures. A younger couple moved ahead of the group, having a quick pace and traveling light. We’d meet up at the lake.

We were moving along at a reasonable pace. One of our group decided to part company and head up to Eiffel Peak where the trail diverged. It’s a strenuous hike. A handheld radio was handed off to the lone hiker and we agreed to meet back at a certain point and time window on the trail.

The rest of us moved on ahead after having a snack. A little bit of protein. A little bit of salt. And plenty of fluids. Another couple in our group was closely watched and at one pint hassled by an aggressive bird which apparently had learned hikers have food and don’t need all of it. Amusing as long as you aren’t the object of its attention.

Breaks in tree cover eventually opened out to treeless terrain. An array of alpine flowers including occasional strawberry blooms dotted the trail sides. Then, that gave way to a more stark, desolate beauty as seen in the opening picture.

A view back on Moraine lake as the forest opened out to a flowering meadow. The “Tower of Babel” rises above the lake — a short difficult climb with amazing views, I am told.

I stopped a few times to get pictures of mountain, valley and flowers. The scenery was a little reminiscent of some areas in the Bavarian Alps.

The trail here is relatively level though uneven being intermixed with dirt and larger pieces of rock protruding from the ground. It was a nice changes from the more strenuous switchbacks which afforded little view through the tall trees.

As we entered the Desolation Valley stretch, the dirt gave way to more stone. There were some patches of dirt, and there we spotted a marmot just off the trail among the rocks. It was giving an alarm call for our encroachment on its territory.

Here the trail runs along the base of mount Eiffel. The nature of the terrain prevented a clear view of its peak from our position. And any regular communication on the small hand held radios. The trail was now settled scree for longer stretches as we approached the lake. There were even a few snow patches and even beds still melting down from the winter. We negotiated most of these with relative ease, slipping was the only concern as a sprained ankle would not be fun on the trail.

Two fellow hikers and our lead continue as the ground began to give way Stoney ground and then scree.

Eiffel lake finally in view!

The open ground allowed a cool wind to blow off the higher snow covered areas and that prompted us to put our jackets back on. We had taken them off on warming some from the initial morning chill and being sheltered in the sun after the ascent on the larch valley trail.

Just above Eiffel lake on the trail looking back on Mt. Perrin, Tuxco, Deltaform and Neptuak.

It wasn’t long and we spotted the younger couple sitting among some larger rock near a little running water. This was at some distance, thanks to one wearing bright red. It took a good 15 minutes to walk to them. This was the stopping point for us though the trail branches off and goes on up either to Wastach peak, or staying on the main trail, over the ridge into British Columbia.

We sat down and some had water and a snack as we viewed the lake below. We shot a few more pictures, collected our thoughts, chatted some enjoying the scenery and began the trek back to Moraine lake. Clear weather made it a wonderful day for pictures.

I’d enjoy going back and exploring more trails in that area, even hiking into British Columbia.

A fellow hiker taking a moment to snap a picture of me and Eiffel lake with the base of Mt Neptuak rising on the left and British Columbia just beyond behind. The ridge behind leads up to Wenkchemna Peak in BC.

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Holly Hiking, biking and kayaking, Travel, Travel blog Leave a comment June 22, 2019June 22, 2019 5 Minutes

Finding The Place

A view back towards The Sleeping Witch mountain at the entrance of the Chancellery complex just outside of Berchtesgaden.

I had been staring at the group of photos on and off for a few hours for another night.

I had looked at them before, but never really studied them deeply. Now over the past few evenings, I had been taking a much closer look. There had to be something that would help me to determine exactly where they were taken, but what was it? I hoped the location still existed. So many places have changed over time.

Finding a location where a photo was taken 70 years ago is not always easy, especially where the scenery in the image is seemingly unremarkable or nondescript when one casually looks at the picture. A picture of the Eiffel tower is relatively easy to match up. A picture of a forested mountainside with a road, much less so.  I was looking at pictures of Clancy and some of the other men in the first platoon of Easy Company, 506 PIR. Interestingly, they are wearing German uniforms. They were the focal point of the image, not the scenery.

Clancy had given these photos to me in the course of our friendship. Some came when he first sent me his “dossier” of sorts, asking me to tell him who he was. That is a story in itself for another time. Some he sent to me at a later. Some of the others he gave me on a visit, only I did not realize he was giving them to me at first. We were sitting in his office chatting when he began to look around on his shelves and among his boxes. He pulled out a box of photos.  He handed pictures to me to look at as we chatted. We stood side by side as we talked, he handing me one photo after another. I looked at each picture carefully.  After a few pictures began to form as stack in my hand, I politely set them down next to me in a neat stack on a nearby box. He paused, looked at me and then at the photos. He reached over past me, took the stack I had set down, and put it back in my hand. He said nothing. I said nothing.  He then took the next photo in the stack in the box and handed it to me and continued our discussion. That was that.

In the particular photo I was looking at now in this family of pictures, there was a wooden cross-hatch fence; a roadway the men were standing on that continued on behind them; a guard house with another small building adjacent; the base of some mountains; and a building in the far middle distance, between the men and the base of a mountain. One could mostly only see one face of the building and its roof, which was wide and had rocks on it—a not uncommon feature of many buildings in that part of Germany.

 There was not a whole lot to go on in the picture itself for a specific location. Yes, it was somewhere in a mountainous region of Germany or Austria. And knowing that they had been in Bavaria in southern Germany – Berchtesgaden, and then the Kaprun area in Austria, narrowed the possibilities, but not by a whole lot on their own.

However, there was more. Clancy had told me the story of how he and his buddies had found some German uniforms up in some houses on Obersalzburg. They had gotten bored and began to poke around the ruins.  With the war being over, and having a too much to drink and too little to do, they decided to try the uniforms on. Someone had a camera to record the event. The photo I was contemplating now was one of the resulting pictures.  The story, along with another recorded in Stephen Ambrose’s book, Band of Brothers, narrowed the location to Berchtesgaden.

It had been almost five years since that conversation. The 70th anniversary of the end of the war was fast approaching and I was now heading to where the photos were taken.  But, where exactly had they been taken? Clancy never really said. He had been gone three years.  However, as I continued to prepare for the trip, I discovered there were some other sources for more information. Related photos and a few written descriptions narrowed the possibilities and led me to believe the photos were taken where Clancy and first platoon had been billeted. But where was Clancy’s platoon billeted? One question just seemed to lead to another.

The most descriptive account is found in David Webster’s published account titled, Parachute Infantry Regiment. Though I found clues in the snippets of published information in a few books,  Webster’s account was by far the richest.

A related photo also gave me a clue. Ambrose, when finalizing his popular account of Easy company 506 PIR’s war history, made mention of the German Officer uniform story as described by O’Keefe:

“Sergeant Mercier….got into the spirit of the day when he dressed in a full German officer’s uniform…. Someone got the bright idea to march him over to the company orderly room and turn him in….to Captain Speirs. 

Someone got word to Speirs before Mercier showed up. When trooprs brought Mercier up to Speirs’s desk….Speirs did not look up. One of the troopers….declared, ‘Sir, we have

captured this German officer. What should we do with him?”

‘Take him out and shoot him,’ Speirs replied…

.’Sir’, Mercier said, ‘sir, please, sir, it’s me, Sergeant Mercier.

‘Get out of that silly uniform,’ Speirs ordered.”  (Ambrose 271)

Clancy had given me a photo of Mercier. And he was wearing part of a German uniform. This could only be a picture taken at the time of the story Ambrose described. But was this the CP? The photo would tell me. I just needed to figure out how.

I had looked at that photo for a long time. The buildings were camouflaged. Very few were.  Geoff Walden had noted on his website — Third Reich In Ruins — that at that point the only known buildings to be camouflaged were those on Obsersalzberg. (Our investigation changed that.) My initial thought was that the pictures were taken there. This bit of information then led me back to the idea the location may be somewhere on Obersalzburg. But I could find no photos that matched the layout of the buildings shown in the picture.

I decided to adjust the contrast on the photo to see if I could bring out any significant details in be buildings or elsewhere. When I darkened the contrast significantly, the writing on the sign appeared: “Easy C.P.”

Easy C.P. Sign. From K. Mercier Photo.

Now I knew for sure this was the location of the story told in Band of Brothers. And I knew the other photo with Clancy was taken at the same time because Mercier, more fully outfitted as a German officer, is also in the other photos. And, a careful look at the men in the background shows one of them, the one walking away from the camera, to be wearing a German officer’s uniform. It is logical to assume that the clothes hanging and piled along the wall in the background were also parts of their “costume.” So I knew the pictures were taken at the CP.  But where was this photo taken in relation to that of the four of them standing together?

More recent descriptions generically state the men of 2/506 were billeted at “the” SS Barracks. The complex that most immediately comes to mind is the SS Barracks on Obersalzberg.  Initially, it seemed likely that this could be the place. After all, Clancy said they were up in some officer’s houses there when they found the uniforms. I tried to match the photos to anything even the shape of a mountain, but no luck. My heart sank as I soon learned that it had all been torn down, but I also learned that it had been bombed before the 506th arrived there so it would be very unlikely they were billeted there if the place was already in ruins when they arrived.

If the photos were taken at the CP then I was sure some E/506 Company historians or tour guides would have the answer–they would know the location of the company CP. I sent inquiries to a few people who were known to be sound E/506 PIR resources, but no real response was forthcoming. I was left to my own intellect to figure this one out.

I revisited David Webster’s published account. I read through his account of their time in Berchtesgaden. Webster gave several descriptions of their billets there. One read:

“….at 2:30 a convoy of G.I trucks took us to a settlement of long, white, two-story chalets on a highway about a mile and a half north of Berchtesgaden. The new billets were laid out precisely as an Army camp and were separated from the road by a smooth lawn a hundred feet wide.” (Webster 241)

A map dated to the 60s or 70s in a college collection, which depicted one half of Berchtesgaden–the eastern half–was of some help. It did show a road leading north out of Berchtesgaden and there were some collections of buildings depicted at certain points, but they gave no hint of being, “laid out precisely as an Army camp.” Obersalzburg is to the south of Berchtesgaden. If the photos were of the billets, then it could not be Obersalzburg for yet another reason. Could their billets have been far from the CP? Webster answered the question in his description, but I could not be sure of it until a few more details were in place and the final confirmation would only come if I could find the ground and walk it.

The more I read of Berchtesgaden and the surrounding area, the more I could see it was a collection of military complex buildings, even outside of Obersalzberg. This made the search a little more daunting. But Webster’s account provided more clues.

Additional descriptions, which included the situation and interior of their billets, were in Webster’s account. He wrote:

“McCreary’s squad and mine wound up in the last chalet to the north….There were three big bedrooms in the upstairs apartment that we occupited, with full-sized living room, a separate dining rooom, a tiled lavatory with modern tub and toilet, and best of all, a large kitchen at the south end with three exposures. 

The kitchen was painted warm yellow, with red flowers on the drawse and cupboards…” 

(Webster 242)

He also wrote of the men standing at the edge of the compound watching a large congingent of surrending Germans walk past them for almost an hour. The contingent stretched out along the road for some distance. They were heading to a PW enclosure which was a mile down the road according to a statement made by Captain Spiers (Webster 241). There was one to the south in Strub– named Orlyk, I knew from internet searches, but this did not seem to match Webster’s descriptions unless his distance and directions were totally off. I tried to reconsile the details, but it just wasn’t working.

I had come across a webpage about the Berchtesgaden and Obersalzberg and at about the same time two different people recommended I look at that site. I had already sent an email to a Mr. Geoff Walden (the author of the site and a book on the subject) inquiring about the location of blown bridges en route to Berchtesgaden and now the CP and billets location. It was evident he knew a lot more about Berchtesgaden than most. He had been documenting the Germany of “then and now” for some time and his web page showed some pictures other 101st photograph locations. I was hopeful he had some information on the exact location.

He did respond back, providing the coordinates for a location — one he had taken another person a few years ago, that also had an interest in the billet location.  I began to go back over the description provided by Webster and some other details provided in Ambrose’s account and some other accounts in Marcus Brotherton’s works. And then this stuck out at me again… A few pages further on in his account, Webster mentioned them watching surrendered Germans walk past their billets in a caravan of sorts and up the road to a PW camp (252-2). It had, until recently, been a work camp for Germany’s slave labor.  I told Geoff that the location they had earlier suspected to be the billets could not be correct as there was no road heading further north to a camp from that location. It had to be a through road, not a dead-end or minor road in the area (as his location was).

Further inquiring of Geoff, I asked where there were PW camps. He told me that one also stood at what is now Winkl (where the well-known picture of Germans coming to talk to American soldiers on tanks was taken), but none of the original structures of the camp remained. Accordind to Webster, the PW camp was apparently visible from their billet compound, based on the descriptions he provided of the German campfires (252-3). Geoff suggested another location for the billets, which was along the through road that passed Stanggass and led up to Bad Reichenhall. It was a group of chalets occupied by the Nazi police at Bischofswiesen.

While it did give me a range to find the billets along the road, I would soon find this problematic in my search for the location. I would see that the place–there is a small compound– which was within a mile of the PW enclosure, was a small complex of sorts and did have chalets and some southern facing exposures.  The problem with this location was that it was more than a mile and a half north of Berchtesgaden. And, it did not appear to have long, white two story chalets, though the buildings would have stood roughly 100 feet from the roadside and would seem to meet Webster’s descriptions of the interior of three bedroom apartments. This leads me to believe that Webster’s published account may have conflated two locations.

I could not yet resolve this disparity, so it was back to the photographs to look for more clues. I believed it was along this road though. Another detail convinced me it could not be too far. In one of his interviews with another E/506 veteran, Marcus Brotherton had recorded the detail in his work, We Who are Alive and Remain, how one of the men had picked up a vehicle and mentioned being near a small hospital. Norman Neitzke said:

“Near a small hospital on the outskirts of Berchtesgaden our squad was short on vehicles. We saw a nice black German ambulance and figured we’d liberate the vehicle. …Our squad leader, Tex Coombs, drove a German Airforce truck by then.” (Brotherton 179). 

As I studied the Google Earth map, I found the hospital building, now disused, and it was along the same road as the police chalets. The billets could not be too far away. It had to be along that road. Interestingly, I would learn that Tex was one of Clancy’s squad leaders as well. And, he was still alive.

I began looking at other pictures to see if they held any clues to the exact location. Perhaps another picture would have the tiny guard house in it. I was not getting anywhere until I happened to look at this picture.

It was a photo like the one depicted here of the Eagle’s nest that got me thinking. If the picture was taken north of Berchtesgaden and on a through road, then there were a much more limited number of possibilities for the location. I looked at the marks cut into the mountain behind and to the left in the image. They were mountains north and west of Berchtesgaden. I wondered if any distinctive marks could be found in the photos of Clancy and his friends.

Sure enough there were marks on the mountain in the background in the photograph of the four men standing together. Could they be matched up to anything in any other photos? With only a few days left until my departure, I began to look through the photos in Rendezvous with Destiny, Epic of the 101st, and the Currahee Scrapbook. I was printing some of the images to bring with me and hopefully match up when I arrived in the Berchtesgaden area.

Then I saw it.  A picture of the award ceremony at what is called the Chancellery caught my attention as I was flipping through the growing stack of pictures I had printed, now looking at backgrounds.

You will notice in the background of the award ceremony photo a light colored gash in the side of the mountain in the upper left section of the photo. It is most visible above the tree line and extends diagonally up the side of the mountain. When you look at the picture of Clancy and his buddies, you will find the same mark in the same general area of the photograph. The photo above is taken at the Kanzlei or Chancellery complex at Berchtesgaden. It’s location is known and the buildings in the photo still stand as evidenced on Geoff Walden’s website (http://www.thirdreichruins.com/miscbldgs2.htm). It is a feature that is also visible in the image of the Eagle’s Nest taken by the Signal Corps I posted above.

With that discovery, things began to fall into place and further unfold. As I continued to look through the photos in Epic of the 101st and in The Currahee Scrapbook another photo stood out at me. It had the guard house and the building and the gate—the same as in Clancy’s picture. I was looking at the picture sideways. I could not believe what I was seeing. I turned the book. and compared the photos. And in the foreground on the left was the same type of wooden cross-hatch fencing… The same fencing in the photo that Mercier was in. It would have been part of the view Mercier had when his photo was taken.

Photo from The Epic of the 101st Airborne.

To the side of the road on a post is a Kangaroo sign–the callsign for the 101st HQ, and it points straight ahead down the road. The HQ was located at the Reichskanslei, which, at the time, going straight ahead at the intersection and following the road as it bent to the left, would bring you directly to the building. It still does, though additional roads and buildings now stand in the area, and other buildings are now gone. There is a sign there today marking the buidling as the HQ for the American forces.

I suspected, based on the shadows alone from the pictures Clancy gave me, that the group of four was taken at 90 degree angle from the direction of the picture Mercier. The psychology of the men standing around taking pictures made sense  for that as well. You can see the uniforms and some of the men sitting on the steps of a long white building in the background of the photo of Mericer. I suspect the one walking away from the camera, still in “constume”, is Clancy as those on the steps don’t hold themselves the way he did. Other photos matched up as I worked my way out from the point of Clancy’s photo at that gatehouse.  I could not wait to test the theory on the ground and see if it still stood.

I emailed Geoff and let him know my findings and shared some other pictures and my line of reasoning. All that was left was to walk the ground. And walk the ground I did. On day two of my trip to Germany I drove from Bad Reichenhall to Bechtesgaden. I arrived on the outskirts at around 9:30am of May 5th…on time with the 70 year old schedule Webster had noted. And, after a trip up to the base of the Eagle’s nest which I hiked, after stopping for a strole in a tunnel in the museum at the Dokumentation Center, and after a stop at the ruins of the Berghoff with a bottle of Champagne, I drove back down the mountain to the Kanzlei complex.

The moment of truth came. I got to the location, parked the van ( I just realized now that Clancy and his buddies had a van when they got there.), and got out and began to walk around. And, my theories proved correct. I found the intersection and I turned and there were the billets where Mercier had been standing. I could hardly believe my eyes. The shadows in the photos did not decieve. 

I tried to call “Tex” Coombs several times from the parking lot at the original HQ there. I had only just gotten in contact with him to try to determine the location of another photo he was in.But, I could not get the phone number to work. I decided to try again when I got back to the hotel.

When I got back to the hotel and thought a little, a detail in the pictures began nagging me–that building in the background where Clancy and the others were standing. The one with the stones on the roof in the middle distance–it was not at the back of the road I saw today. I believed it was the same building that was in the awards ceremony picture because it also had rocks on the roof. And that building was still standing, but it was not visible from there. The angles were not adding up in relation to one another. Did I really have the right spot? Or, was it just very similar. Were they standing on a parallel street nearby? How was I going to confirm that now with what I had in hand? Then I remembered a website that had aerial photos from the war. They had images of the area that were taken just a short time before the 101st had arrived. I had looked at them several times trying to figure possible locations, but only with non-subscribtion level access, which kept the images quite small. I found the website, paid for a “zoom image” subscription over the internet, and went to work. I found the image of the area I had looked at before, but now was able to zoom in on the details. It was amazing.

There it was. There was another building, now gone, which was line of sight down that road. I later found that building is visible in other photos of the Chancellory area. Everything matched up. You could even tell the one building behind Mercier was camoflaged from above. I was relieved. There were no holes left in the theories about the photo locations. There were still a few problems with Webster’s account of the billets in relation to the PW camp that would become more clear over the next few days. But for now, I really had found the place Clancy was and had stood there 70 years ago to the day of when he was there.

Later that evening after I  was finally able to make a call to Mr. “Tex” Coombs, who had been Clancy’s squad leader at that point in the war, and let him know the good news. I had tried to call him earlier from the complex to let him know I found it and it was still there, but the number did not work with repeated tries and variations of method. Another problem to solve long distance…  I messaged a friend to try the number from the states, and, if he got through, to let Tex know I was trying to reach him, but it was not working and to say hello on my behalf. Maybe I was dialing international incorrectly? I had told Tex I was going to call and wanted to keep my word, but I was running out of time for conventional methods. It was getting pretty late locally by now. I wanted to be on the mark with the day. It was today that they arrived 70 years before, not tomorrow.

My friend messaged me back a few minutes later that the number did not work from the US domestically either. A digit must be off in the number, I thought. I was sure I had written it correctly. How was I going to find the correct number? The card was on my desk at home. I was in Germany. Nobody was there to call and I was not sure my phone worked anyway. I thought to write a note and date it and mail it to him. It was just be a lot slower communication than a phone call, but it would still be keeping my word the best I could. Then I thought maybe…just maybe…he has a listed number.  So I did a search, and after a little work, matched some details and found a number. It was indeed one digit off from the number I had, but the only way to be sure it was the right one and would work was to call.  I dialed the number, and, after a few rings, the phone picked up. The voice on the other end was Tex’s. What a relief. That led to a long and interesting conversation to close a wonderfully memorable day and evening.

What a day. I had drunk a champagne toast at the ruins of the Berghoff which had been smoldering ruins and crawling with allied soldiers, while wearing my jump boots which had been in Normandy, “Holland”, and Bastogne all on the 70 year anniversary, and I talked with a man who had been Clancy’s squad leader there in Berchtesgaden, 70 years ago to the day. I had made it in just under the wire to find the place and call Tex.

Coombs later told me he was not going to pick up the phone as he did not answer calls from overseas, but when he saw it was listed as Bavaria he was curious and did. I had told him I would be calling, but I think he did not expect the listing on caller ID to be from Bavaria!

Clancy had told me more than once that you can solve a problem if you just think about it. He was right.

Me at the Billets. May 2015The two storey white billets Webster described.
Me at the intersection at the Kanzlei complex. May 2015At the same intersection as Clancy and his buddies were at 70 years earlier to the day. (Compare with photo at start of this post)
A view of Kehlsteinhaus (The Eagles Nest) from the Chancellery billets. Oddly the view is not mentioned in Webster’s published work.

(*Article originally blogged in December 2015)

*******************************************

Works Cited:

Ambrose, Stephen E. Band of Brothers: E Company, 506th Regiment, 101st Airborne from Normandy To Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest. 1992. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2002. 2nd Touchstone Ed. Print.

Brotherton, Marcus. We Who are Alive and Remain: Untold Stories from The Band of Brothers. 2009. New York: Berkley Calibre (Penguin Group). 1st ed. Print.

Webster, David Kenyon. Parachute Infantry: An American Paratrooper’s Memoir of D-Day and the Fall of the Third Reich. 1994. New York: Dell Publishing, Random House, 2002. Rev. ed. Print.

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Holly Travel 1 Comment April 11, 2019April 12, 2019 19 Minutes

Morning comes early in Bavaria

Moon momentarily hiding behind some clouds at around 4 am in Bad Reichenhall.

Morning comes early… so early the sun has even not risen yet. The moon was still high in the sky. Still above the mountain peaks. But nonetheless, I needed to be on my way for a bit more research and to follow the schedule the 101st Airborne units had taken 70 years ago.

My guide… an edited, published account written by Daniel K. Webster of his time in the 101st Airborne. The book is called Parachute Infantry.

I decided to head back to Tiesendorf briefly to take a look around and see if I could identify some possible locations where the soldiers may have spent the night, before having my own breakfast back at my guesthouse in Bad Reichenhall.

Descriptions were of men lodging in several houses and of lining vehicles up in a field to continue transporting the men on their way.

Looking at photos and google earth images narrowed the possibilities for the field location considerably, but without veterans to verify, it remained a consideration at that point, not confirmed. I took so pictures and moved on. I drove along the road looking for locations or things to identify locations by Webster’s descriptions. I believe I found another location where the road from Tiesendorf and Anger angles towards the autobahn and crossed it but no longer merged directly.I got out to take some pictures and was impressed that Germans were up early and out doing or going for walks.

I continued back towards Bad Reichenhall, crossing the Saalach river at Piding. The 101st Airborne had driven across the railway bridge below because the autobahn crossing (behind me in the picture below) had been blown up in attempts to slow the Allied advance in the area.

Crossing the Saalach river near Piding.

It wasn’t too long and I was back at the guest house for my breakfast, my early morning “chores” complete. It was a little bit for me to adjust my ear to the accent of the region, but we managed to communicate breakfast desires, look at the morning paper ( which had an article about the 70th anniversary and soldiers) and, after packing, return the key.

I was then out on my way into the mountains–to the Eagle’s Nest. My next problem (besides getting more petrol) was finding a place to get a bottle of Champagne. I would need it to commemorate the anniversary in fitting fashion later. What are the chances of finding any with my limited knowledge of the area?

I set up the GPS and was on my way towards Berchtesgaden looking for gas and Champagne…

The moon from my balcony in Bad Reichenhall.

Moon momentarily hiding behind some clouds at around 4 am in Bad Reichenhall.

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Holly Travel Leave a comment April 7, 2019April 11, 2019 2 Minutes

Don’t miss your ship (or your speedboat)

This is what a speedboat tour looks like in San Francisco Bay. Although, at one point it almost didn’t happen.

We knew things were going poorly when one of the group was over 50 minutes late getting out of the hotel room. Nature and suite case size were against us and so was parking, but that would be a later dilemna.

In spite of our delayed departure, our leader still drove us to see the Golden Gate Bridge and stopped and let s out to walk around. I had really wanted to walk on the bridge. Nobody else was very keen, but he did it anyway. I paid for parking since free parking was full, and so out we went. He could have cut it out in our new time crunch, but he didn’t. I got to walk in that bridge. What a view…

It was amazing to see the design and the actual size and height of the bridge and in the famous “frisco fog” no less. The bridge is a piece of Americana –a sort of symbol. What the Statue of Liberty is to the east coast, the Golden Gate is to the west coast. It’s totally different when you get to see something like that in person and take in the sights, sounds, smells and surroundings. There were surfers on the water far below battling it out as the tide and currents changed.

The highlight of the day was intended to be a speedboat tour. But weather, fog, and choppy waves the previous day made us wonder if the tour would be cancelled. We hadn’t heard anything.

Time was running tight and when one of the tour members wandered off looking for an outhouse, it ran much tighter. A call to the tour conductor confirmed no cancellation, but now we had to wait another 5-10 minutes of the older man oblivious to our time crunch, to reappear.

He appeared and we shouted for him to come quickly, but the shouts were relatively futile since he was hard of hearing. We all loaded in and zipped away and along to our parking spot of yesterday…zipping as fast as speed limits, traffic, and traffic lights would allow, that is.

The car park was further away than anticipated. What was estimated to be a five or 10 minute walk was really closer to 20 or more. Seeing the dilemma I began to race ahead, literally. I knew the general way from our jaunt around the day before.

Fortunately, I run and so walked and ran intermittently along the streets, beaches and sidewalks. I called the speedboat tour operator seeing he had tried to reach my number after Rich had used my phone to confirm no cancellation due to weather. I had dropped his phone accidentally a few day before and it wasn’t always working. I let him know we were on our way. We had parking problems, but were headed over. I tried calling Rich, but his phone wasn’t operable at the moment.

When I got closer I called the tour again asking for specific directions, but they were not terribly helpful to someone unfamiliar with the pier– someone like me. Another of our group also ran ahead, eddy was faster than me and got there ahead of me, but wasn’t sure where to look. So we both began to scout.

We walked along the boardwalk doing our best to understand the directions. I began to look for boats or signs that would match what I had seen. I looked down to see a speedboat like in the picture and a man talking to a couple. I shouted down to him and he confirmed he was the tour operator. Right across wasn’t really right across from …. in his directions, but I found it.

I told him the others were coming. He told us to come down and start getting ready. I did so quickly and began to head back up and tell the other man to help guide the rest of the group in. The tour operator said when he saw us coming he would wait. Later, he said it’s just when no one shows up at all that he would not have waited. We were arriving within minutes of the departure time instead of the prep time, but we moved quickly.

It was just a few minutes later, when Rich appeared and I pointed out the speedboat location. And then headed towards the road to help guide others in. The others began trickling in.

What a relief. Calls en route and running a mile or so paid off and he waited for us. I was really looking forward to the tour and was concerned that everyone else would miss it as well and not recoup the cost of the tour. It would have been a bad ending to the trip as we were heading to the airport directly after.

I snapped a few pictures of our travel guide suited up for good measure and we loaded onto the craft. Off we went. And it was fun. Especially when we went fast.

It was a very good tour. I’d recommend it. Not only did I get to walk on the bridge, but to speed along under it and see it’s massive structure from below and hear the iconic fog horns. Se sped a mile pull so past the bridge and came back in periodically switching seats and learning the history of different points.

We also saw Alcatraz from a distance, but what really got me was the open water– All the sea life and the motion of the water. The coast and waves. It was like taking a walk in the woods. I absolutely loved it. There is just something about the open water….

Going under the Golden Gate.

Our speedboat tour guide, enjoying it as much as us. Also, very knowledgeable. I’d recommend Bay Voyagers for a tour.

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Holly Travel Leave a comment March 30, 2019April 7, 2019 4 Minutes

Navigation skills: Don’t leave home without them.

I had only been in Germany a few hours and most of that time was on the road–The Road– you know, the Autobahn.

I was driving a small van–all they had left to rent at the airport. I brought my own GPS, which, after a little adjustment, was working just fine. Fine…except for the small issue that I didn’t see had it did not seem to be charging all the time. What I thought had fixed it turned out to be temporary and so I watched the life drain from it as I sped down the autobahn.

And then, after a brief stop at McDonalds and learning how to ask for a tasche for my leftovers , the power in the GPS died. I was driving down the autobahn getting close to my exit when it happened. Now what?

You might laugh, but I did not have a printed road map, at least a recent one. I had a folder of old photos and maps. And, I did have my memory. I had in fact come this way to follow the footsteps of veterans who had tread this ground on the last days of WWII.

I had studied many maps. So,though not detailed maps (almost schematic), I had and idea of place names and road numbers and where I needed to go. It was a bit of an unexpected shift, but I had traveled before the days of GPS so reverted to paying close attention and seeking out roadsigns. It reminded me to not become too dependent on convenient technology.

I got to the right exit and got off. It was at a small town with a medieval road plan ( and winding ways). I recognized the town name and route number from the WWII era maps. I pulled over and readjusted the plug on the GPS and got it powered up charging and working again. Meanwhile, I was already headed in the right direction.

If I had missed my exit it would have wasted valuable research time so it pays to do your research and have a back up resource. I was planning on and did get detailed local maps once I was in Berchtesgaden. It’s good to have a plan and a back up plan too. Don’t leave home without one. And, run through a few probable contingencies. What could go wrong: delays, weather, car problems, sickness, and yes, navigation back up.

I had to laugh at myself because I had learned some primitive navigation techniques both while in the course of hiking and travel, but also through reading specific resources on the subject. I’d just thought I’ll look at the terrain and navigate with a sharp stick or two. I didn’t really need to resort to those skills, but realized there was some comfort in knowing I could go down a few grades in navigation resources below even map and compass, and still get where I needed to. It was nice to know I had them if I needed them. Gives you an edge and some confidence. It frees up brain space to make other decisions.

As it was, I was able to drive the route to where the military unit I was following–the 101st Division– had run into road blocks and resistance in those fateful last days of WWII and turned back. I did the same and headed north to Tiesendorf area in time to catch the sunset (pictured above) and then onto Bad Reichenhall for the evening. Both locations were given by veterans as where they spent the night. I would be rising very early — 4:00 am to stay on schedule with the 101st 70 years before….

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Holly Travel Leave a comment March 25, 2019March 29, 2019 2 Minutes
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