Portland Arch: Indiana Route 41 Road trip (pt. 1)

Only about 10 minutes west from Route 41 and just a bit south of Attica, Indiana, and about 30 minutes north of Turkey Run State Park, this is a nice little stop as you are traveling to or from the park from this general direction. The preserve is situated just out side of the town of fountain. Road signs can direct you once you reach the town.

It is listed as a national natural monument and is one of a few natural arches in the state. It really is what they call a “hidden gem”.

Like Turkey Run State Park, this nature preserve has some unusual and unique vegetation. The Department of Natural Resources’ description of the location ( https://www.in.gov/dnr/naturepreserve/files/np-Portland_Arch.pdf ) says this is the only location in the state where Canada blueberry grows. It makes me wonder how climate and geology influenced the spread and establishment of flora in the region and how this has changed over time. No mega fauna on the site today, of course, but there are also huckleberry patches and wintergreen, which is a plant more commonly found in the far north of the US.

The north trailhead which is at the first parking lot (of two) goes to the arch. There is a second parking lot and a south trail which is also a loop that leads towards Bear creek, but does not link up with the north trail or provide views of the arch. There are marked stations on the path which are described in the pamphlet for the park: https://www.in.gov/dnr/naturepreserve/files/Portland_Arch.pdf However, many of the posts have rotted away in the wet environment so if you aren’t keeping track you may lose your place in the pamphlet guide.

The preserve entrance is through a baffled gate such as ones that keep livestock and bikers out. There is a Memorial stone with plaque just inside the fence to denote the preserve’s status as a National Landmark.

The trail length is listed as 0.8 of a mile. Sandstone cliffs form a narrow ravine that is watered by a small creek. This creek cuts through the sandstone, forming a natural arch. The same creek feeds into a larger creek (Bear creek) that flows into the Wasbash River, which is less than half a mile away as the crow flies.

It was just a short walk through the forest and then downward on a small footpath when the sandstone cliffs began to emerge from the covered earth. Not much further along a small footbridge crosses an unnamed creek. If it were up to me, I’d call it arch creek since it is the waterway that helped formed the arch. The DNR wrote that the arch was created by undercutting on both sides of the rock protrusion.

The striations created by the layering when the stone was originally formed, made interesting natural patterns that become more stunning on the other side of the arch.

This is a nature preserve so there are some restrictions such as no picking the vegetation and they ask you clean your shoes before entering to reduce the possibility of brining in seeds of nonnative plants.

It’s a short and easy trail to hike, and, though small, there is a lot to see. Once you pass over the first little footbridge and follow the path along the sandstone rock face, it’s only just a little further and the arch becomes visible in the sandstone wall you’ve been walking next to. The creek you just crossed turns again and flows through the arch. The trail follows the same path and you can walk upright through the arch.

The rock formations fascinated me with their alternation my angles. I wasn’t sure how best to capture the features. Here you can see they change directions just above the arch and this may have played a structural stability role in why it did not topple.

I took a few pictures and then passed through. The arch proportions. Make it seem smaller that it is and I found, though I’m not terribly tall, I could walk through without stoops over. Just a small stream of clear water was running through today. It must see higher water after heavy rains.

Passing through the arch from this direction was like walking through a garden gate. The sandstone protrusion was like a walk and protected the environment on the other side closer to Bear creek. The first difference I noticed was the size of the plants. They wee much larger here.

Now the alternating direction of the stone layers became more apparent and beautiful.

The rock ends abruptly and just next to it Bear creek runs. Higher cliffs rise on the opposite side though further back. I had to wonder if Bear creek had at one time cut a similar arch through this same wall of sandstone.

Heading on down the trail, the cliffs rose higher on either side of the creek. The pale touch me nots were huge- almost to my shoulder in height. Another wooden walkway facilitated walking between the creek and cliff.

The path continues along the creek for a while offering a view of the much taller cliff face opposite.

The trail followed a bit further but then turned abruptly towards the cliff face on our side of the creek and again to make almost a 180 degree turn to follow the stone and climb a short and relatively easy pitch up out of the ravine.

Soon we were back up to the surrounding ground level. Though sunny raindrops were hitting the leaves on the canopy high above making almost a popping sound. I couldn’t identify the noise at first I had heard similar sounds of a tree with an insect infestation. Soon the clouds and increase in the noise made it clear it was rain. It stopped just a few minutes later. As we nearer the parking lot it was clear a rain shower was passing nearby and some rain had blown out of it, but that was all.

In just a few minutes we were back at the car, the trail having formed a loop that linked up a short distance from the parking lot.

I saw some photos posted of their being a waterfall on the premises. There is a second trail and a pioneer cemetery and I image some view of the Wabash from the small riverside town of Fountain. I did not see it so perhaps will stop in again as a nice break along Route 41.

Just a short distance up the road and on the other side of Attica and the Wabash is the state’s tallest waterfall. It seems there is plenty to see along Route 41. I’ll have to save that for the next time.

Eiffel Lake: A little taste of Alpine wilderness

Hiking on the path near Eiffel Lake.

Located in Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada and just a short distance from Lake Louise, this moderately rated trail is a good day hike trail pick. It’s about 7 miles long with much of its 1800 foot elevation gain occurring in the first mile and a half of the trail.

There were not too many folks on this trail. It was a pleasant contrast to the shores of Lake Louise. There you almost had to push your way through crowds to walk, especially near the famed hotel. The downside of many people being able to afford travel is that some beautiful places become heavily trafficked making even access (e.g.,parking a problem). On our trip forest fires played into the numbers as some places were closed, forcing tourists and hikers to funnel to other areas.

You can’t blame folks for wanting to see beauty and getting away, but balancing this with the sheer numbers and it’s impact on the environment and other hikers is a difficult question to answer. I’ve seen it at the Grand Canyon and Yosemite. It took from the enjoyment of some areas.

Once it became apparent that seeing some places meant even greater crowds than anticipated, our guide made some alterations to times and places to avoid crowds. The strategy worked pretty well. There is so much beauty to see in the Canadian Rockies you don’t have to go to to see the Insta-famed sites and not at the same height traffic times of day or year.

The trail head, which actually is a connecting trail for our purposes, named Larch Valley trail, rises from iconic Moraine Lake. Definitely stop to take in the view on a short boulder trail at the end of the lake adjacent to the parking lot. A view of the 10 peaks behind the lake made their way on to Canadian currency for a time. And for good reason. It is certainly a breathtaking view — one you can hardly believe is real. Canoes are available for rental, but they are a bit pricey, like Lake Louise. There’s also a gift shop and cafe at the parking lot.

After walking the lakeside boulder trail, we passed the gift shop and followed a series of several switchbacks, which took us up through the coniferous forest. We would follow the trail beyond the Valley of the Ten Peaks and eventually on to “Desolation Valley” and then Eiffel lake itself. Most of our elevation gain took place here on the larch valley trail–the first mile and a half of the trek.

One of several switchbacks rising above Moraine lake on the first leg of our journey. Just a glimpse of some of the 10 peaks through the trees.

Once we got on Eiffel lake trail, things pretty well leveled out. The larch valley trail continues on to Eiffel peak. Our path for the day, went on to the the lake of the same name. We hiked in July so the days were long and warm and most of the snow was gone. Something you want to take into consideration if planning a day hike at a different season.

We moved in small groups according to pace. I typically bounced from front to back of the main body, as I walked faster but would frequently stop to take pictures. A younger couple moved ahead of the group, having a quick pace and traveling light. We’d meet up at the lake.

We were moving along at a reasonable pace. One of our group decided to part company and head up to Eiffel Peak where the trail diverged. It’s a strenuous hike. A handheld radio was handed off to the lone hiker and we agreed to meet back at a certain point and time window on the trail.

The rest of us moved on ahead after having a snack. A little bit of protein. A little bit of salt. And plenty of fluids. Another couple in our group was closely watched and at one pint hassled by an aggressive bird which apparently had learned hikers have food and don’t need all of it. Amusing as long as you aren’t the object of its attention.

Breaks in tree cover eventually opened out to treeless terrain. An array of alpine flowers including occasional strawberry blooms dotted the trail sides. Then, that gave way to a more stark, desolate beauty as seen in the opening picture.

A view back on Moraine lake as the forest opened out to a flowering meadow. The “Tower of Babel” rises above the lake — a short difficult climb with amazing views, I am told.

I stopped a few times to get pictures of mountain, valley and flowers. The scenery was a little reminiscent of some areas in the Bavarian Alps.

The trail here is relatively level though uneven being intermixed with dirt and larger pieces of rock protruding from the ground. It was a nice changes from the more strenuous switchbacks which afforded little view through the tall trees.

As we entered the Desolation Valley stretch, the dirt gave way to more stone. There were some patches of dirt, and there we spotted a marmot just off the trail among the rocks. It was giving an alarm call for our encroachment on its territory.

Here the trail runs along the base of mount Eiffel. The nature of the terrain prevented a clear view of its peak from our position. And any regular communication on the small hand held radios. The trail was now settled scree for longer stretches as we approached the lake. There were even a few snow patches and even beds still melting down from the winter. We negotiated most of these with relative ease, slipping was the only concern as a sprained ankle would not be fun on the trail.

Two fellow hikers and our lead continue as the ground began to give way Stoney ground and then scree.

Eiffel lake finally in view!

The open ground allowed a cool wind to blow off the higher snow covered areas and that prompted us to put our jackets back on. We had taken them off on warming some from the initial morning chill and being sheltered in the sun after the ascent on the larch valley trail.

Just above Eiffel lake on the trail looking back on Mt. Perrin, Tuxco, Deltaform and Neptuak.

It wasn’t long and we spotted the younger couple sitting among some larger rock near a little running water. This was at some distance, thanks to one wearing bright red. It took a good 15 minutes to walk to them. This was the stopping point for us though the trail branches off and goes on up either to Wastach peak, or staying on the main trail, over the ridge into British Columbia.

We sat down and some had water and a snack as we viewed the lake below. We shot a few more pictures, collected our thoughts, chatted some enjoying the scenery and began the trek back to Moraine lake. Clear weather made it a wonderful day for pictures.

I’d enjoy going back and exploring more trails in that area, even hiking into British Columbia.

A fellow hiker taking a moment to snap a picture of me and Eiffel lake with the base of Mt Neptuak rising on the left and British Columbia just beyond behind. The ridge behind leads up to Wenkchemna Peak in BC.

Falling for the falls: Mist trail Yosemite

DeeDee, a fellow hiker,ahead of me on the trail. Vernal falls is in the shadow to the left.

The Mist trail is a great pick for a day hike in the Yosemite valley area. While the trailhead is paved and was somewhat crowded, even at relatively early hours (in part because it links up to the immensely popular Half dome trailhead) it is well worth the effort to keep heading on up the trail and allow the crowds to thin out. The views only get better as you climb.

There are several sections of switchbacks and stairs to climb along the way. The trail both follows and crosses the Merced river as it climbs from the valley floor. I can only imagine how much effort went into creating the trail and how much continues to go in to it in maintenance.

We began early to avoid large number of hikers on the trail but even shortly after the park gates were officially open, it was difficult to find parking and we walked from the campground to the trail head.

As we followed the trail, the crowds began to thin some at the first footbridge and then a turn in the trail which affords a view of Illilouette gorge and sometimes the falls of the same name. The view of the falls was not ideal, but it is still a pretty view. If you plan on taking pictures of this area, you might want to come early or late as the midday sun can washout the light colored stone cliffs and rocky faced of the gorge.

The trail continues upward with the ground beginning to fall away steeply on the right. The path is wide and still paved with asphalt at this point. But that eventually gives way to dirt and rock and stone steps.

You cross the Merced River on another footbridge which provides a view of Vernal falls. It’s not a great angle and at the time of our visit, somewhat obscured by trees. To really see a view of the falls worthy to hold a place in memory you must continue along and upward on steps. The mist from the falls covers the trail here making it a little slippery if you don’t pay attention. That’s where the trail gets its name from.

If you are lucky and arrive at the falls on a clear day and the sun is just right, you might get a rainbow like we did.

Myself and guide Richard heading up the trail at Vernal falls, one of several waterfall views visible along the Mist trail.

The steps follow the right side of the watercourse and gorge wall. This is a spot for lots of good pictures. The mist becomes so thick at times it is almost like a fog. The steps lead up and you get a continued view of the falls right up to the cliff it falls over. We spent a good bit of time here just enjoying the beauty of the falls and getting some good pictures to capture the almost magical rainbow.

The trail continues to climb up the cliff face and allows a view from the top of the falls down into the cut gorge below. The water above the fall can be fast and strong, and, therefore, dangerous. It’s the section above the falls where people are hurt or even die so — needless to say — exercise caution near the water.

Just upstream from the falls is a section called the white apron and here the water is often white as it slides quickly over the solid rock bed of the river. White apron is a good description. And again it’s a good place to snap a picture or two while you watch your step.

The steps below the falls looked like something out of Middle Earth, and, in terms of being photogenic, this spot certainly is. So take your time and enjoy.

Another shot of DeeDee taking on the myriad of steps at Vernal falls.

If you continue on to Nevada Falls (which I heartily recommend), the views only get better. The view into the valley and of those falls are spectacular. Keep in mind that you will be doing more climbing and following switchbacks among large boulders and walking over uneven ground covered in tree roots stones. The more effort you put in the greater the reward on this trail.

Decision Makers

A panoramic view from behind the falls at LaSalle Canyon, Starved Rock State Park in Illinois.

A pair of ice climbers and I shared a bit of trail time. In fact, one climber provides a nice compositional edge or “bookend” in this picture. While observing the pair move and interact around the falls, a few things became apparent.

You could probably tell the climbers apart from other folks even without their gear. They are more confident and relaxed than the other folks. Relaxed but intentional. The confidence… that comes from intention — a result of making decisions…. making many decisions. They are assessing each move they make — each step and destination — without really thinking about it – a sort of a passive climbing mode, if you will.

They were intentional about every place they moved and how they got there all around the falls. After all, that is what their hobby consists of — making continuous sets of decisions — involving one or two or more steps ahead, solving a problem or many little problems to complete their climb. It sharpens the mind. I miss climbing and crave that engagement— it uses a similar set of skills for different sets of problems in mountain biking (though I’m of a mind bikers are a bit more haphazard… probably a result of speed in the equation) I wondered if they realized the difference between themselves and the others at the falls.

The others were a little more timid and unknowing. They were, without doubt, enjoying the environment, but not like they were at home or in their element or visiting a familiar friend. It was more like folks who’ve visited the White House, but never lived there. The two groups were experiencing the falls on totally different levels. It was fascinating to watch.

Oh yeah, and then there was me…taking in the whole scene. I was not totally uninvolved. I did talk to and joke some with the climbers at the falls and as we shared the trail to the next canyon, where they found their kind, climbing a pair of ice falls. I took more pictures while watching the climbing kin interact.

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Hiking on the path near Eiffel Lake.

One of several switchbacks rising above Moraine lake on the first leg of our journey. Just a glimpse of some of the 10 peaks through the trees.

A view back on Moraine lake as the forest opened out to a flowering meadow. The “Tower of Babel” rises above the lake — a short difficult climb with amazing views, I am told.

Two fellow hikers and our lead continue as the ground began to give way Stoney ground and then scree.

Just above Eiffel lake on the trail looking back on Mt. Perrin, Tuxco, Deltaform and Neptuak.

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